As I was trundling down Parramatta Road this week in ever-increasing drizzle, I was greeted with a welcome beacon of hope. Hope to get out of the cold, blowy Sydney day and into a haven of cosiness. Deus Café is one of the last bastions of culinary endeavour as Parramatta Road descends into wedding shop hell.
In one word, Deus is real.
From the bike workshop which brings back memories of tinkering away with your granddad in his shed to the hearty, home-style food coming from your grandma’s kitchen. It feels like coming home.
This is quite a feat in such a large, high space. They have achieved this by keeping the space dark. – black, brushed concrete floors, long wooden communal tables and minimal, warm lighting. I can bang on to anyone who will listen about overlit spaces, especially in restaurants. No, it is not necessary to light food to a level allowing scientific dissection. There is mystery and imagination hidden away in those dark nooks and crannies. When your mind can fill the gaps, your experience is so much greater because you are part of the space not just an observer. The homely style is perpetuated by the clusters of eclectic art, which hark back to a bygone, drive-in movie era.
And I haven’t even started on the food!
As with your grandma’s cooking, the food is unfussy using strong, fresh ingredients allowing simple dishes to sing with flavor. Like the slow cooked pork and romesco breakfast burger and the French toast with strawberries, banana and ricotta. Its almost like buying the knobbly, organic carrots at the market. You know behind that imperfect exterior will be a world of taste.
We mainly do Deus for breakfast because their hotcake stack is stupendous. But on the occasion we have lunched, they have not put a foot wrong.
And of course what you all really want to know, yes, the coffee is very good.
Enjoy, savour and devour!